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Monday, June 4, 2012
BigRedBusTouringCo.com: Derby And It's Rich History
BigRedBusTouringCo.com: Derby And It's Rich History: On from Broome, with an over night stay in another of the Main Roads free camps, and here we are in Derby. the oldest town in the Kimberle...
Derby And It's Rich History
On from Broome, with an over night stay in another of the Main Roads free camps, and here we are in Derby. the oldest town in the Kimberley's. Steeped in history, its a town of around 5,000 people, and services the outlying areas.
Derby developed slowly as a small town serving local tenacious
pastoralists who settled in the area despite the isolation and harsh
conditions.
In 1880, sheep stations were built nearby at Yeeda and a landing port was built. The massive 11 metres 36 feet tides, rips and scattered islands of the Dampier Archipelago made a port necessary for the development of the West Kimberley outback.
In 1885, a jetty was constructed to service the growing pastoral areas and the thousands that flocked to Western Australia for the gold rush. Troubles broke out between the European settlers and local aborigines, violence and hostility racked the towns development.
In 1880, sheep stations were built nearby at Yeeda and a landing port was built. The massive 11 metres 36 feet tides, rips and scattered islands of the Dampier Archipelago made a port necessary for the development of the West Kimberley outback.
In 1885, a jetty was constructed to service the growing pastoral areas and the thousands that flocked to Western Australia for the gold rush. Troubles broke out between the European settlers and local aborigines, violence and hostility racked the towns development.
Derby was the
western base in the 1960s and 1970s as the Gibb River Road was built for
the station owners in the outback to carry their beef from the remote
outback stations to abattoirs at either Derby or Broome in the West
Kimberley, or the Wyndham in the East Kimberley.
At Circular Wharf, the Derby jetty area, according if the tide is in or
out, you can either walk a jetty on huge stilts, high above the mud
flats and the saltwater crocodiles or be close to the brown and
dangerously rapid waters stirred up by Australias biggest tides as the
massive 11 metres tides rush in.
The port was actually closed by Derbys Department of Marine and Harbours in 1983. Remains of the original livestock loading facility can be seen right next to the jetty.
Today, beef is Derbys primary industry and oil is mined at nearby Blini. Derby holds its Boab Festival in July and is the Western Gateway to the rugged Gibb River Road through the Kimberley.
The port was actually closed by Derbys Department of Marine and Harbours in 1983. Remains of the original livestock loading facility can be seen right next to the jetty.
Today, beef is Derbys primary industry and oil is mined at nearby Blini. Derby holds its Boab Festival in July and is the Western Gateway to the rugged Gibb River Road through the Kimberley.
The Boab Prison Tree
In 1912, close by to the Derby Prison Tree, a man called Myall
originally sank a bore - Myalls Bore - to a depth of 322m. The water
from Myalls Bore was used to fill a 120m-long, 4.2m-wide cattle trough
known to be the longest in the southern hemisphere. Many, many thousands
of cattle would have drunk from that trough in the days when cattle was
king of the Kimberley.
Boab Prison Tree |
Termite Mound and Barry |
The Water Trough |
Azure Kingfisher |
The Dinner Tree |
So short of being the gateway to Windjana Gorge, and Tunnel Creek, that is Derby. Booked on the Gorge tour for tomorrow and then we will be heading on towards Fitzroy Crossing, Geike Gorge and the Bungle Bungles, Halls Creek and up towards Kununara.
Really looking forward to this next part of our journey - a photographers paradise, and will be so good. We come back over this way again, it will be with a totally off road set up, so that we can really get into the nitty gritty of this amazing part of Australia.
BigRedBusTouringCo.com: On The Road To Broome
BigRedBusTouringCo.com: On The Road To Broome: After a wonderful few days at DeGrey's River, it became imperative, after a short detour down to Eighty Mile Beach, to have our rear view m...
On The Road To Broome
After a wonderful few days at DeGrey's River, it became imperative, after a short detour down to Eighty Mile Beach, to have our rear view mirrors fixed, as they had almost be shaken off, so off to Broome asap. Also needed to make enquiries about purchasing new house batteries, as ours no longer seem to be lasting the distance, so a visit to Broome may just be a bit unhealthy for the old bank account.
An overnight stop at Goldwire rest area, which is another great overnight stop (again with 24 overnight campers) and a dump point, and this one in conjunction with another one further down the road called Stanley Rest area, are to be commended and are maintained by WA main roads - they are doing a great job providing these camps. After all - it is a long way between towns over this way.
Arrived in Broome and located our mechanic, who couldn't fit us in for 4 days, so off to a caravan park we go. $38 pn + a $8 pn electricity tariff!! The High season price hasn't started yet, but even heard of a caravan park somewhere over this way charging an on top tariff for dogs.......
Nice caravan park though.
Spent our first day, perusing the pearl shops, of Broome, of which nearly every second shop is consumed with pearls, so very beautiful, but take your money with you. The historic Chine town is well worth the visit, but in particular the ope air picture theatre, with its deck chairs and the occasional jet over shooting the screen, drowning out the sound of the movie, but all just a great experience.
Staircase To The Moon Necklace |
Yellow and White Pearls |
A visit to Broom is not complete without the compulsory sunset shot of the camels on Cable Beach. A photographers dream shot. Very difficult to get that perfect shot, with hundreds of tourists down there trying to get the same thing, sitting in their chairs with drinkies taking in the scene. Each camel train, has about 4 photographers running along side taking photos for clients as well.
Camels On Cable Beach |
Sunlit Jelly Fish |
That Almost Perfect Shot |
The Camel Earning Every bit of his $65 |
Sun Setting Over Indian Ocean |
Sunset On Cable Beach |
History of Broome
Originally founded as a pearling port
over a hundred years ago, Broome now boasts a multicultural population
of many nationalities lured here by the promise of finding their
fortunes. Koepanger, Malay, Chinese, European and
Aboriginal cultures have all blended to create a captivatingly friendly
and flamboyant personality that is the heart and soul of Broome.
INDIGENOUS AUSTRALIANS
No modern discussion of
Broome's history can ignore the regions indigenous Australians,
historically known as the Aborigines or Aboriginals. Their claim to the
lands that would become known as Dampierland, Roebuck Bay and Broome, span forty thousand years and clearly supersede that of any of the European explorers that would come later.
In 1688, when William Dampier
first visited "New Holland" as the area was known to the rest of the
world at the time, the first seeds were sown that would forever change
the lives of the regions indigenous people. The constant and fundamental
cultural clashes between the two people eventually led to the
exploitation of the regions original inhabitants, especially in the
early days of the pearling industry when Aborigines were forced to
become skin divers for pearl shell and work aboard the pearl luggers.
ROARING YEARS
The Fat Years of 1889 to 1891
saw the price of mother of pearl shell escalate to new highs and
established Broome as a port often referred to as the Queen City of the North. By 1898, Broome was the principal cargo port for north Western Australia and by the First World War; the Port of Broome was second only to Fremantle.
At this time, men from the UK dominated the pearling industry at Roebuck Bay but by 1900 many had retired to England or other destinations to enjoy their fortunes. As these men disappeared, they were replaced by younger men from Victoria and New South Wales affected by the depression of the nineties.
War returned to Broome on December 8, 1941 the day after the Japanese attacked Pearl Harbour. Australia instantly joined America
in declaring war on the Japanese and almost immediately, all pearling
activity ceased in Broome. Men rushed to join the war effort and the
industry’s labour pool vanished overnight as Japanese residents were interred in camps.
Since Broome’s livelihoods
relied heavily on the skill and experience of Japanese divers this was
an economic death knell for the pearling industry and the town. The
residents of Broome were suddenly faced with rounding up and interring
friends and employees simply because they were Japanese. Unlike other
towns Broome’s Japanese population made up a good portion of the towns
inhabitants and many had been born and raised in Australia and had no
ties to Japan. Although they complied with the internment policy,
Broome, residents tried to make life as easy as possible for the
Japanese.
The war escalated quickly and by February 26, 1942 Malaya (now known as Malaysia) and Singapore had fallen, as well as the islands of Ambon and Timor. This put the Japanese only three hundred miles north of Broome and the threat of a Japanese air attack became a reality. A defence unit was organised
and the town’s aerodrome was upgraded to accommodate the largest planes
and Broome became a re-fuelling station for the R.A.A.F.
In January 1942, pearlers were informed that their luggers were to be purchased and unseaworthy
vessels destroyed as a provision against a Japanese landing. Shortly
afterwards on March 3, 1942 Japanese Zeros strafed the aircraft
in Roebuck Bay and at the aerodrome wiht machine gun fire and destroyed
sixteen Flying Boat planes (Dorniers, Catalinas and Short Empire flying
boats) which were refuelling after evacuating Dutch refugees from Java.
Following there were three
further air raids, one on the 20th March 1942 in which one aircraft was
destroyed and one person killed, and in August 1942 and August 1943
which resulted in minimal damage with no deaths or injuries. The
constant fear continued to force Broome residents to stay away and the
town languished into decay. By the time the war ended, Broome was badly
deteriorated and a mere shell of its former self. Residents, who did
return, found little to salvage and were forced to start from scratch.
But, as had happened after World War I, Broome would recover and rebuild
once again. The pearling industry once again evolved and a new market
in cultured pearls changed the way pearl shell was harvested forever.(Courtesy Of Broome Visitor Information Centre).
A highlight of our time in Broome was a visit to Willie Creek Pearl Farm. Very informative to hear how pearls are cultured and grown, and totally understandable as to why they are so expensive.
"Divers ‘drift’ over the oyster beds of the Australian North West
coast between January and March each year to collect ‘Wild’ caught shell
for use on Farm for Pearl production. As an industry we are restricted
to collecting no more than 572,000 oysters of a minimum legal size of
120mm. Oyster are housed in Pearl panels and rested for a period of 4
months on a bottom lease. However, heavy investment into research by
Australian companies has led to an increased production of hatchery
produced Pinctada maxima with a minimum legal size of 90mm.
This technique reduces the cost and hazards of collecting wild shell
whilst allowing more control over oyster growth, health and production.
Hatchery and wild oysters are held in large re-circulating tanks
onboard seeding vessels prior to their first operation. Oysters are
relaxed and ‘pegged’ open to allow a pearl technician to perform the
operation in a sterile room onboard the vessel.
Highly trained pearl technicians perform the delicate seeding
operation. A small nucleus formed from the shell of the Mississippi
mussel is inserted into an incision in the oysters gonad. The nucleus is
coupled with a piece of nacre secreting mantle tissue. The shell is
then safely housed within a protective pearl panel and placed in the
ocean. Divers ‘drift’ over the oyster beds of the Australian North West
coast between January and March each year to collect ‘Wild’ caught shell
for use on Farm for Pearl production. As an industry we are restricted
to collecting no more than 572,000 oysters of a minimum legal size of
120mm. Oyster are housed in Pearl panels and rested for a period of 4
months on a bottom lease. During their two years on a ‘farm’ the oysters
are cleaned and nurtured before being examined by pearl technicians who
hope to find a large and lustrous south sea pearl.
These technicians are highly skilled and highly paid professional
performing up to 500 operations a day during harvest time. They
generally work for 3 months annually and can earn in excess of
AU$100,000 for this period. Technicians have been predominantly Japanese
however the success of the Australian industry has lead to increased
diversification with Australian technicians now more common."
(Courtesy Of Willie Creek Website).
Willie Creek- Home to some very big Saltwater Crocs - see the marks on the sand? |
Taking The Boat Trip |
Aerial Shot of the tidal Creeks From the Helicopter |
Cable Beach From The Air |
Anatomy Of An Oyster |
Flatback Turtle |
Bringing Up The Oysters |
Long Line Of Oysters |
Trip to Cape Leveque
Another challenge on our journey was a trip to Cape Leveque, a 4WD track with a large majority being sandy and very corrugated. At one stage, w felt like we were driving in a creek crossing, and on our return journey, it was right here, that we met not just a semi trailer, but a road train!!! Barry drove as high up onto the embankment as we could, to let him past, but the higher we went, the more we were sliding back down. lol . Bit hairy to say the least.
The trip itself is well worth it, but another visit would see us overnight up there. Beagle Bay we missed, as we missed the turn off, but took the walk down to Western Beach and saw the awesome red cliffs along the beach.
Further up the road is One Arm Point home to a Trouchus shell hatchery, and some wonderful green turtles and assorted other marine life, and where we chose a spot to have lunch.
The Awesome Red Cliffs Of Western Beach - Cape Leveque |
Polished Trouchus Shell |
Guess Who?? |
Taking a Stroll Through The Waters Of Western Beach |
Thought It Was a Joke!!! But They Weren't!!!! |
Green Turtle |
Our Lunch Spot |
Meeting The Road Train |
Afternoon glow of the Red Sand |
BigRedBusTouringCo.com: DeGrey River
BigRedBusTouringCo.com: DeGrey River: DeGrey River How lucky we were to find this piece of paradise.........and just what we needed after our experience in Port Hedland. ...
DeGrey River
DeGrey River |
How lucky we were to find this piece of paradise.........and just what we needed after our experience in Port Hedland.
DeGrey's is just a small trip from Port Hedland of 83kms - registered as a 24 hour stop over, with a dump point, down down by the river is any number of wonderful sites with heaps of grass, very few sandflies or mosquitoes, and with some beautiful Brahman cattle roaming through to keep the grass down - just makes it a wonderful place to pull up stumps for a while.
The top area is listed as 24 hours, by down by the river is not so restrictive.
At one count we had over 48 camped there for the night, from all over Australia, and so friendly. We have generally found that we make more friends in camps like this than in any caravan park, other than those in the smaller towns, and the wheatbelt towns of Koorda, Dowerin and Goomalling are great examples of this and are a wonderful example of what tourism in Western Australia should be about.
More camps like this, means more money to spend in towns and helping to prop up some of these towns.
More camps like this, means more money to spend in towns and helping to prop up some of these towns.
Barry and Geoff Taking a Stroll along the River Bank |
Carol Going For a Swing |
A Family we Met From Lochinvar |
At Eighty Mile Beach - Glenys and Gaye - two solo ladies we had quite a few Happy Hours with |
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